In the spring of 1997, we were forced to return to northern Vermont to work for what looked like an undetermined time. Luckily, by August we had located a buyer for our home and business and headed for the boat and a cruise up the Cumberland River its total length and return. The Cumberland rolls across the northern part of Tennessee and passes through Nashville as well as many other smaller interesting towns. Particularly wonderful was Cordell Hull Lake with a total development of one marina on its shoreline of 100 or so miles. In all, we traveled 976 miles over 49 days, returning the boat to Kentucky Lake that Fall for winter storage. We used 138 gallons of fuel over 197 engine hours for a 0.70 gph or 7.1 mpg on this cruise.  Details follow.

Sept. 14, 1997  Cumberland River, East Tennessee

Ahoy Mates,

Sunday, 9:00 AM. and we have just dropped the anchor on a bank of the fogbound Cumberland River! It was fairly clear when we hauled anchor and left the secluded anchorage, 30 miles from the head of navigation, but now fog lies as thick as the New England coast in late summer.

Our guide book says that President Lincoln's grandfather owned land along this part of the Cumberland. We may also see the ghost of Daniel Boone, who is said to have hunted in this section of Tennessee.

We left South Hero on August 17 and visited Dennis's brother Mark in Hemlock, NY, and then Ralph and Gracie Johnson in Alexandria, Va. Traveling through West Virginia and Kentucky was beautiful and uneventful, allowing us to arrive in Murray, Kentucky on Sunday the 24th midday.

It was HOT: mid 90's and humid. Kentucky has great State Parks which generally include a large lodge with restaurant, camping area, golf course, tennis courts, swimming pools and marinas. We stayed at Kenlake Lodge, in Aurora, Ky, which is just a few miles from where our boat was stored.

Sadie B was launched Monday morning and we began preparations for about a  six week cruise. Both the alternator and starter had been removed for maintenance and needed to be reinstalled. DB installed the alternator, and he attempted to install the starter, but could not force his body into the contorted position required by the small cramped engine compartment. So I had my first go-round as a grease monkey. After several  breaks for the hot and cramped conditions  the task was accomplished. Sadie B rumbled into life.

After two days of cleaning and provisioning, we headed out on Thursday, August 28; cruising north on Kentucky Lake, which is the lower Tennessee River, to the channel that connects with Barkley Lake and the Cumberland River.

Our usual day consists of rising around dawn, 5:30 AM here; leisurely having coffee, a bite to eat and hauling the anchor by 8:OO AM. When we are near a town, which there are not many of here, we usually stop for a walk, a look around and a chat with the locals. Because of the large rise and fall of the river , as much as 5-10 feet overnight possible from power generation, there are few town docks.

We anchor in the river and dinghy ashore, usually to a boat launching ramp. If there are no towns on the days agenda, a marina stop is scheduled. In hot weather the ice box needs ice daily as no one has blocks any more. By early to mid-afternoon, we drop the anchor to enjoy the sun, spend a little time on boat projects, and read. The average cruise per day is around 20 miles or 3-4 hours of engine time. After supper, I allow Dennis to win a few games of Backgammon. We have had little TV reception except when close to Nashville.

The only big town along this river is Nashville. There is a new city dock, nearly 300 feet  long and reported to be very busy on summer and fall weekends. We were able to get a space for two nights. This allowed us to spend parts of three days doing the downtown city things; walking tour, trolley tour, State Capitol, museums, shops and eateries, plus a free concert on the waterfront.

Another smaller town on the river is Carthage, Tenn., home of Vice President Al Gore,  population  3000. We walked a fair bit in this town but could find little of interest. We will reach the headwaters of navigation of the Cumberland River today, at Celina, TN. Our mileage is greater than the 381 chart miles as we also explore creeks, tributaries and embayments for anchorages.

We are on Cordell Hull Lake, nearly 100 miles of shoreline without a house or private dock. There are just two small marinas. To get here and return to relative civilization we will have to cruise 320 miles without diesel fuel being available. We hope Sadie B is sipping instead of gulping.

September 23
 
Cordell Hull Lake was so beautiful we stayed a few days longer than planned. Also, because we found a Corp. of Engineers Park that had tennis courts. These parks are lovely, remote, and primarily used for camping and fishing. This one just happened to be near the town of Celina, and included more recreation areas.

On Cordell Hull Lake we met just two other cruisers. We had a radio conversation with one from Nashua, New Hampshire, as they were headed back down river. Another interesting couple we met had spent 17 years building a 57  foot ferrocement motor sailor in their Nashville backyard. Four years ago they had it moved four blocks, at a cost of $5000, and launched on the Cumberland River. They cruised the boat up to Cordell Hull Lake for outfitting. It may  find it's way to salt water this fall.

Four locks and dams configure the Cumberland River into 4 lake regions: Barkley, Cheatham, Old Hickory, and  Cordell Hull. Old Hickory Lake is just east of Nashville and is Nashville's water playground. The shores are lined with residences from small cottages to huge houses and boat traffic is very busy on weekends.

This morning we were able to lock down through Old Hickory Lock alone, but between two commercial tows. When the gates opened, it appears as if there is no room to get out past the 6 coal filled barges, but of course that was just an illusion. Now we are on Cheatham Lake headed for Nashville, where we will spend the night. We just picked up two weeks worth of mail from home, so today I do some bookkeeping.

Cheatham Lake is more like a river than the other lakes. Gently rolling hills interspersed with open fields and picturesque bluffs. Not very good access to any town.

Barkley Lake is the sister to Kentucky Lake which forms the famous Land Between the Lakes recreation area. Barkley Dam impounds a lake of more than 93,000 acres with 1004 miles of shore line. There are so many embayments it would take a long time to explore all of them. It looks like we will have enough time to take the Cumberland all the way down to the Ohio River at Paducah, and the National Quilter?s Museum,  then head up the Tennessee and back to Kentucky Lake.

The plan is to have the boat hauled on around Oct. 13. Hoping the weather stays warm enough for us until then. So far cool weather has not been a problem.
 

Esther and Dennis